These instruction will
help you install the Fattywagons
How to install
the injector line heaters:
The heater consist of a resistor wire inside of
a high temperature woven ceramic insulation.
The white insulation is to prevent to resistor
wire from contacting the metal injector line. If the wire is allowed to touch any
metal it will likely short out!
Step #1. Remove
the injector lines if possible to do a better
job on the installation. Bend the resistor wire
to conform to the shape of the injector lines.
Take care not to damage the insulation. Use care to make
sure the contact
area of the heater is the same for each injector
line (about 4-6" of contact on each line).
Most times the heater can be used full length
for all injector lines. In some cases it
is necessary or advantageous to make a wire jumper
between the injector lines. If this is the case
we suggest purchasing our jumper wire kit.
Step #2 After the
routing is determined. Cut a few
pieces of the orange silicone tape and use it to secure
the heater to the injector lines. Always make sure to
keep the tape as tight as possible. But not too tight!
Step #3 Secure
the entire contact area of the heater to each of the injector lines using the
orange silicone tape. Cut the tape into 4-6"
long strips to make it easier to work with. Be
sure to wrap the heater tightly
to the injector lines. Be patient... we know the
tape is difficult to work with but if you take
your time and use care a nice appearance
can be obtained. Use
a tool like a screwdriver or a pick to help fish
the tape between the injector lines. This step
can take up to an hour or more to do
Step #4 Coat
the exposed area between the injector lines
high temperature Red silicone RTV (not included
but available in a tube @ your local auto parts
store) use your fingers to rub the silicone into the fibers of the white ceramic
insulation. After you are done take an hour or
let the silicone dry.
Step #5 If you
removed the injector lines re-install them.
Step #6 Use a crimp tool to connect
the ring terminal to the ground wire (the green wire) and secure
it to a bolt on the
engine. We like to use a hole located on the power steering pump. Connect the other wire (red) to a circuit
inside the fuse panel that has power when the
ignition is in the accessory position. On a Benz
you can usually use a spade terminal to slide over the
fuse. You will need to spread the spade terminal out a liitle so it fits on the fuse tab. On other vehicles
we add a circuit. (on a w123 Benz we like to
use the accessory circuit # 4 fuse)
Step # 7 The
heaters will melt any vacuum lines or other wires that are allowed to
contact them. Before starting the engine check to make sure none of the
linkage, wires or hoses are rubbing or will be allowed to touch the
injector lines or heaters. Also inspect the injector return lines
to make sure they are in good condition and not leaking. If there is
any sign of leakage they MUST be replaced before you operate the
vehicle. After the installation is complete start the engine and
check for even heating by feeling the injector line near the injectors.
Caution: be careful since after a few minutes of running the injector
line gets really hot! If you are curious how hot the injector
lines are getting a simple cooking thermometer will tell you the
temperature by securing it to the line just prior to the
injector. Or get a infra red thermometer and have some fun checking everything! Your finished installation should look something
Sometimes it is best
to install jumpers between the injector lines. If
this is necessary you should purchase our jumper
wire kit. This kit is not needed for the Benz. Wire and connectors are contained in
the package to make a jumper between the
injectors. Before you cut the insulation coat
the it with red high temperature RTV and
let it dry to prevent fraying. To crimp
the wire you MUST use a crimper that looks like
Make sure that
each wire goes all the way through the
connector. The completed crimped connection
should look like this.
After you crimp the
connection, you must wrap the bare metal
connection with the silicon tape to
prevent contact with the metallic injector lines.
Then install the heaters on the injector lines.
If the edges are sharp remove and re-install the
anti vibration clamps after rounding the sharp
edges like this: The clamp on the right has been ground down.
Here's how we like
to connect the wires to the fuse panel.
installation should look something like this:
instruction for the A-1 filter on 77-85 Benz:
are specific to the Benz but can also be used to
install an A-1 in other vehicles. Mount the WVO
filter under the hood at the left front corner
in the location where the windshield washer tank
is. The filter is too tall for the hood to close
so you must cut a hole in the inside of the
fender well for clearance. The bottom of the
filter must protrude through the fender well.
The filter must be mounted vertically. The
filter must be located as far foreword as
possible so the tire does not contact it (see
pictures). After cutting the hole, mount the
filter by welding or bolting a piece of angle to
the frame or sheet metal. Here's some pictures
to show what it should look like.
After the filter
is mounted you must connect the fuel and coolant
hoses. Locate the fuel supply tube (it's the one
that supply's the lift pump located on the side
of the injection pump. Use 5/16" fuel hose and
connect the line to the filter inlet (located on
the side just under the heating jacket) Use a
5/16 barbed x 1/4" male pipe fitting on the
supply on the filter. The filter outlet is on
the bottom. Use a 5/16" or 3/8" barb x 1/4" male
pipe to connect a supply hose to the fuel pump.
(We recommend you switch to an electric fuel
pump see direction for on demand fuel system)
Next you need to connect the coolant supply and
return hoses. In should be at the bottom and out
should be at the top on the A-1 filter jacket.
For coolant supply cut the heater hose that
comes out of the head on the drivers side of the
engine. Place a 5/8" T in the stock hose. Then
connect a 5/8" hose to the bottom fitting on the
A-1 filter jacket. Next install an second 5/8" T
into the heater hose located on the passenger
side at the front of the engine near the water
pump. Connect a hose to the top of the jacket to
the T. Fill the cooling system, bleed the
air from the fuel system start and check for
leaks. We also recommend installing a shot
section of clear hose in place of the cigar
shaped hose on the fuel return. This is allows
you to check for air leaks in the system. after
a few minutes running the clear hose should no
longer have bubbles moving through it.
How to make and install
volt filter heater kit:
Take a new filter
and wrap the aluminum foil tape around it sticky
side out like this.
Then wrap the
filter with the heater like this.
Then Wrap the
heater wire and filter with the foil tape sticky
side in. The filter heater should look like
Finally, wrap the
heater with silicone tape and it should look
The sleeve is
removable and can be re-installed on new filters
You can use a large hose clamp on bottom of the filter to keep it mounted if you like. To do this, wrap extra aluminum tape towards the bottom of the filter to give the clamp something to grab on to.
Here's a picture
showing the 2 fuel pumps and the A-1 filter used
on an inline injection pump Dodge conversion.
This photo show an
installation on a TDI
Simple Single Tank for Benz Instructions:
Here is a picture
of our simple single tank system without a
heated filter. Start by removing the fuel supply line and inline filter down at the bottom of the injection pump . The order of appearance from the fuel supply line would be, 1) 100 watt heater. 2) in line filter 3) Boost Pump, then back to the mechanical lift pump located on the Injection pump. Use the #4 fuse for the Injection Line heaters. This will allow you to pre heat BEFORE you energize the glow plugs on cold mornings. Use the # 12 & 14 fuse for the Electrotherm heater and the boost pump. This will energize the inline heater and pump to come on when the car is running. The Injection Line Heaters will stay on while driving along with the heater and pump. Install the modified banjo bolt on the 3 way return fitting located on the filter housing. Be sure to use the aluminum sealing washers that are on your car with the new bolt. I like to ground the Electrotherm heater and the pump under the tach amplifier. The pump comes with quick release terminals installed so that the provided power wire can only be plugged in with the correct polarity. Be sure that the outlet side of the pump is going towards the engine. The pump has "OUT" stamped on it. Use one of the 3 holes that mercedes was nice enough to provide in the fender to mount the pump. This way there is no drilling involved and the system can easily be removed if so desired. You can still run diesel or any mixture thereof. If running more than 80% diesel the heaters should be turned off.
Your Done! Now the magic word......FILTERS. Always carry extra filters with you. Vegi will clean out your tank and you will be changing filters often for the first month or so depending on the miles you drive. You'll know when it's time. Car losing power going up a hill? Spin on filter. Car idling poorly? Pre filter. The clear inline pre filter is now next to the boost pump so it's easy to see and easier to change. You'll be surprised how much gunk is in your tank! After all the big stuff is cleaned from your tank the clear filter will last longer than the spin on filter. Your filter life will vary depending on the quality of oil you use. I change mine about every 1000 miles regardless of performance. Helpful hint..... Use automatic transmission fluid to fill the spin on fiter when changing. This will help keep your injectors clean.
How to convert the
early Powerstroke diesel to WVO.
Here are some
picture of the installation.
Remove the fuel pump
from the engine. Install rag in the intakes to
prevent anything from falling in to the engine.
Then remove the low pressure FP from the top of
the HP pump and install the pump modification.
Reinstall the fuel
Remove the filter
housing and drill a hole as shown.
Tap the hole with a
1/8" NPT tap.
filter and blow it clean using high pressure
air. The re assemble. Make sure to remove all
metal shavings. ATTENTION!!! This is a left hand
Use RTV silicone on
the threads and install fittings as shown.
Mount valves as
shown. Plumb flow according to the diagram. With
the engine running adjust the pressure with the
bolt on the top of the high pressure fuel pump.
Install a temporary 100 PSI pressure gauge to
set the rail pressure.